93 Points, James Suckling
The dynamic husband-wife team of H. O. Spanier and CarolinSpanier-Gillot is the driving force behind the BattenfeldSpanier Estate. Their “secret sauce” is hidden deep beneath the soil of this outstanding winery located in Rheinhessen, namely layers of lime that add precise, vibrant minerality across the spectrum of their varietals: Riesling, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and Silvaner. Cellarmaster H. O. has combined the perfectionism developed during an early career in sport with the trust in nature that goes hand-in-hand with the finest wine-making. When applied to organic and bio-dynamic vineyard and winery principles this combination of skill and intuition yields wines crafted almost single-handedly by a rich and unique terroir. The result is the estate’s incomparable Silver-label Riesling and vibrant Spätburgunder and Silvaner.
The Kirchenstück is Battenfeld-Spanier's flagship in Hohen-Sülzen. It is a very old vineyard, which is already mentioned in documents before the 30-year war. Its original name was Griebelsteyn-and this vociferous name is very apt. Kirchenstück consists of soft, limestone stones and daytime temperatures are always a little higher than in our locations in Mölsheim or Nieder-Flörsheim. Hohen-Sülzen lies in the Eisbach Valley where, as the name suggests, the cold stream, which originates in the Donnersberg massif, exerts a considerable influence with cooler nights. As a result, despite the high grape ripeness, the wines retain their freshness, elegance, and acidity. This Spätburgunder comes from our oldest Pinot Noir vines. The yields are extremely low and the chalky underfloor brings a wonderfully cool freshness to the wine. The dark fruit aromas of currant and black cherry are restrained. In the mouth, the wine remains dark and spicy, and minerality dominates. This Spätburgunder matured in one-year-old barrels from Burgundy for almost two years.
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