Domaine Diochon Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2018
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Imported by renowned afficionado, wine importer, wine author and enthusiast, Kermit Lynch, the Domaine Diochon Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes is not your typical Beaujolais. It hails from Moulin-a-Vent, one of (some say the grandest) the 10 most esteemed Crus of Beaujolais. As one critic put it, "It’s about as far removed from a Beaujolais Nouveau as a Whopper is to a prime piece of beef!". This wine is made for lovers of old school Cru Beaujolais. Thomas Patenôtre works with extremely old Gamay vines (50-85 years old), and he only makes this one wine, which is a classical expression of the appellation. And, the price is spot-on.
More good news: it's ready to drink, with beautifully integrated tannins and dark, delicious fruit, cassis in particular, or you may hold it for another 10-15 years. Go old school and pair it with a classic steak tartare with all the trimmings, or bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with Manchego and Marcona almonds to start. The sky's the limit after that...
Robert Parker, Jr.'s Wine Advocate: "Revisited a year later, the 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes continues to show very well, exhibiting a rich and inviting bouquet of black cherries, licorice, smoked meats, anise, orange rind and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its deep core of fruit is framed by ripe tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a sapid finish. This is sufficiently demonstrative to drink well today—preferably with a rare steak or similar—but it will also age well. In style, it's quite reminiscent of the 2009, which is in its prime. Drink 2020-2038.
As I've written before, Thomas Patenôtre today superintends this five-hectare Moulin-à-Vent domaine, continuing to fashion resolutely classical expressions of the appellation, perpetuating the style favored by Bernard Diochon. Old vines, whole-cluster vinification, classical macerations and élevage in foudre are the order of the day. After making a success of challenging circumstances after the hail of 2016 and 2017, Patenôtre realized a very successful 2018 that exemplifies everything admirers of old-school cru Beaujolais—the present writer included—are looking for, and his 2019 vintage is just as promising." May 2020
Trade Notes: This is a wine that admirers of old school Cru Beaujolais, me included, are going to love. It’s about as far removed from a Beaujolais Nouveau as a Whopper is to a prime piece of beef! The color, like the flavor, is cassis-like, and the style here is like a hypothetical cross of Red Burgundy meets Northern Rhone Syrah.
Importer Kermit Lynch sums it up pretty nicely: “Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent is juicily delicious yet there is a majesty to it. It is full-blown and full-bodied, yet it has a lush, supple, swallowable texture. No hard edges. No astringency. No heat. Moulin-à-Vent is supposed to be the grandest of the region’s Grands Crus, and here you sense a certain grandeur throughout the taste experience.”
If it’s good enough for Kermit, it’s good enough for me. After tasting this, I promptly bought my distributor out. I’ve already snagged mine — I’ll cellar 6 of them, and I’ll drink the rest with family this year at Thanksgiving. You should do the same.
Importer: "Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent is juicily delicious yet there is a majesty to it. It is full-blown and full-bodied, yet it has a lush, supple, swallowable texture. No hard edges. No astringency. No heat. Moulin-à-Vent is supposed to be the grandest of the region’s Grands Crus, and here you sense a certain grandeur throughout the taste experience. And don’t overlook the visuals. Diochon’s color is always a sight to see. The color, like the flavor, is cassis-like.
This wine is a perennial favorite at the retail store in Berkeley, and Bernard himself is one of the most respected and beloved figures in the region. His wild moustache looks as if it has seen the inside of a million wine glasses, and it’s hard to imagine a world without wine like this." ~ Kermit Lynch
|Aging||6-7 months in oak foudres|
|Region||Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais, France|
|Production||Limited at 2,500 dozen|
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